When the ocean goes flat, look inland. Behind Taghazout and Tamraght the land climbs quickly into dry hills covered in argan trees, with Amazigh villages, goats in the branches and views back over the whole bay. You don't need a car or a tour for most of it. You just need water, shoes with grip and an early start.
The coastal walk through Taghazout
The easy one. Follow the shoreline through the village, over the rocky points and along the small beaches, with the surf breaks right below you. It's about 3 km with a little up and down, and it's the best way to understand how the breaks fit together. Go at low tide, when more of the rocks and pools are exposed, and finish with a mint tea on a terrace.
On top of Tamraght
From Tamraght, tracks lead up the hill behind the village onto the ridge. It's a half-day loop of around 6 km through argan trees, with views over the beaches from Devil's Rock down to Agadir. Local guides run it as an easy half-day walk. It's also doable on your own if you're comfortable finding your way on a map app: download the area offline first, as signal drops in places.
The shepherd path behind Banana Village
Starting from Aourir (Banana Village), an old shepherd path heads up the valley past small villages, palms and, after a wet winter, natural pools. Guides run it as a half-day walk of about 6 km, rated easy. Go with someone local the first time: the paths branch a lot, and a guide will usually stop for tea or lunch in a village, which is half the point.
Above the ocean from Taghazout
A longer day of around 10 km heads into the hills behind Taghazout and loops back towards the coast, past argan forest, villages and caves in the cliffs. It's easy to moderate, but there's little shade. This is one to do with a guide unless you know the area.
Paradise Valley
The famous one: palm-lined gorges and rock pools in the foothills of the High Atlas, about 45 minutes inland. Half-day tours from Taghazout cost roughly $14 to $28 including transport. We have a full guide to the day trip. If you're a keen walker, look for the longer guided routes that go deeper into the valley, or the overnight version with a night in a village.
Practical tips
- Start early. From May to October the hills get very hot by late morning, and there is almost no shade outside the argan trees.
- Carry more water than you think, at least 1.5 litres for a half day. There are no shops on the trails.
- Wear proper shoes. The paths are loose and stony. Flip-flops are how ankles get twisted.
- Respect the villages. Cover shoulders and knees, ask before photographing people, and don't walk through fields or courtyards.
- The goats in the trees are real, but if someone is charging for a photo of goats placed in a tree, they were put there for tourists.
- Tell someone your route if you go alone, and save Morocco's emergency number, 112.
Going with a guide
Several small local outfits in Taghazout and Tamraght run guided hikes, from half-day walks to two-day trips with a night in a village. A guide is worth it for the longer routes: they know which paths go where, they can talk to the villagers, and the money stays local. Ask your surf camp or accommodation who they use.